Southeast Indiana, Western North Carolina and “Home” - 8/5 to 8/16

This is like a serial program one would have listened to a half-century ago – “in the previous post we were at Indian Lakes in Batesville where we had been for a few days. Join us, now, as we continue on toward Asheville, North Carolina to attend the 40th Anniversary Rally of the Tri-State Traveliers.”

At Renfro Valley KOA where we met up with good friends, Bob and Terry, on our way to Asheville. Their Country Coach Intrigue is parked in the spot behind our Newmar Dutch Star.

We left Batesville in the middle of the morning on Tuesday, August 5. Our destination for the day was the KOA at Renfro Valley near Mt. Vernon, KY on I-75. We rendezvoused with our friends, Bob and Terry from Xenia, OH. We enjoyed BLTs for supper and some conversation before going to bed. On Wednesday morning we led the way to our next destination, Bear Creek RV Park and Campground in Asheville, NC. We were going to celebrate 40th anniversary celebration of our local FMCA club, Tri-State Traveliers. Every five years the club has planned a rally away from the 150-mile radius of Cincinnati, the area from which the membership is drawn.

As it turned out, getting to the campground wasn’t an easy task. Though an overview of a map showed that it was near the intersection of I-26 and I-40, we had no real idea where we were going since we tend to trust a GPS for directions. Immediately after exiting I-40 at the modified clover leaf intersection, we were to take an immediate left after passing over the highway. In our minds it didn’t make sense since it looked like an on ramp. (You know how a GPS can make a mistake). So, we continued to the next opportunity to make a left. Wrong! that led us down some narrow streets and low-hanging trees. After a couple of blocks and stares from the amazed residents along the path we realized we had misunderstood and that the GPS really did know the right path to take. As far as Byron was concerned, the only thing to do was follow his nose while listening to Miss Tom Tom make suggestions. Finally, we came out on a main road and made a successful second pass to the street to the campground. Of course, Bob and Terry weren’t worried, they were following us instead of blazing a trail.

Bear Creek is carved from a hillside in which two levels have been

created for parking RVs. All spaces were of the back-in variety.

This is the view of the lower level in the late evening.

This photo shows the main office building a pool at Bear Creek.

Since it was cool, none of us attempted getting in the pool.

On Thursday we took off to see the downtown area of Asheville. It was a new experience for us as well as the Stockholms. We visited a Woolworth’s that is now an art mall though it still has a functioning soda fountain. From there we walked toward the Basilica of St. Lawrence. As we walked, we past a performing arts center where we saw the bronze statues of a man playing a fiddle accompanied by a bother playing a banjo. In the grouping a couple was dancing as a child watched and clapped. (We now look at bronze statues differently since we visited a bronze foundry in 2012). 

A street scene depicting dancing to lively mountain music.

Once at the Basilica, we stepped in just before a noon mass. The building was constructed in 1905 according to the plan developed by an architect from Spain, which explains the Western Mediterranean influence. The basilica’s dome has a span of 58 by 82 feet and is thought to be the largest freestanding, elliptical dome in North America. There are other domes, of course, but not shaped like an oval; most are round at the base.

The Basilica of St. Lawrence in downtown Asheville.

The Basilica is known for it’s elaborate stained glass windows, many coming from Munich, Germany. This is of Christ healing the afflicted. In all, there are 12 windows.

We walked in another direction and came upon the Grove Arcade, another old building that was purpose-built to house several small shops; sort of like a mall. The building was planned to be be 14 stories tall but resources limited the project to three stories. We stopped at Appalachian Strings where a young woman demonstrated their uniquely made dulcimers. They are unique in that they can be held and played like a ukelele though the retain the drone strings and two melody strings tuned at the unison.

Terry and Martha pay particular attention to a fascinating demonstration of a

uniquely designed made dulcimer. Bob was looking at their

display of instruments while Byron took the photo.

The main activity for our rally was a visit to Biltmore Estate, the former home to one of the famous Vanderbilt families. Though a few in our group of nearly four dozen had visited the estate and house, hardly anyone had visited in recent years. Neither of us had been there ever in spite of having driven through the Asheville area many times. Though we were blown away at the cost of admission onto the grounds, we were also blown away by what we witnessed even though the day was overcast with scattered showers. Neither of us had an idea of what we were to see.

Getting to the estate meant going about five miles southward to the next exit. Once exiting I-40, we had a two-mile trip northward to what is called Antler Hill Village, a comparitively new area on the estate property. At Antler Hill is the winery (built in the former dairy barns) that first opened in 1971, a museum (Biltmore Legacy) showcasing the history of the Vanderbilt family, a restaurant, gift shop, and ice cream/sandwich shop. At the winery we experienced the complimentary wine tasting and tasted some of the various spreads based on recipes developed at Biltmore and now sold by the Biltmore Company.

On display at Antler Hill Village is this statuary set showing Cornelia, the daughter of George and Edith Vanderbilt, playing with Cedric, the family’s St. Bernard. They stand between

the Creamery and Cedric’s Tavern.

From the winery we traveled another mile or so to another area on the 8,000-acre estate where we had a buffet lunch. This was served at the Deerpark Restaurant which, at one time, was the large horse and carriage barn. We had a nicer lunch than we were planning, which was a pleasant surprise. (By the way, don’t wear everyday work clothes because you’ll look and feel out of place.)

The front side of Deerpark Restaurant on the Biltmore Estate.

Following lunch, we headed to the Biltmore Inn for a nap. Just kidding. However, a nap would have been good. Instead, we headed to the sprawling Barn at the farming area of Biltmore near Antler Hill. The farm provides a glimpse at Biltmore’s agricultural past. The Barn is actually a series of smaller buildings that are connected around a courtyard. The centerpiece is a traditional barn for feeding livestock and storing hay. Traditional farming demonstrations take place in the Barn, including authentic blacksmithing by local craftsman Doc Cudd, who was enlisted to work at the Estate and provide demonstrations. On the day of our visit the Smokehouse was closed as was the Creamery. However, other buildings were open in which were displayed some items from the past. It is easy to see how this area was the social center of the laborers who lived on the farm. Interestingly, supervisors were provided two-story homes while others lived in smaller houses for which the rent was $4 per month.

Finally, though late in the afternoon, we went to the crown jewell of the estate, Biltmore House. To use the word “house” is a bit of an understatement. Biltmore House, the main attraction on the estate, is a Châteauesque-styled mansion built by George Washington Vanderbilt II between 1889 and 1895 and is the largest, privately-owned house in the United States. It covers a total of 178,926 square feet of floor space of which 135,280 square feet was living area for family members, guests, and servants. In all, there are about 250 rooms. It is still owned by descendants of the family though none have resided there since 1956. Because we were part of a group, we were provided a tour of the house which covered three floors. Photos, provided below, were selected from sources on the Internet and were not taken by us.

The front side of the house as it faces the vista point, which is at the top of a hill with horse and walking paths as well as a large greenhouse where plants are still raised today. During construction of the mansion, the lawn (shown in this photo) was the main supply yard with rail lines on both sides. The rail lines were used for bringing in stone and lumber and also provided the community of workers with transportation to and from their quarters. The Grand Staircase is to the left of center and the glass-covered Winter Room is to the right.

The Grand Staircase features a three-story-tall chandelier designed by Vanderbilt. To facilitate cleaning of the windows, there is also a circular but narrow balcony around on the outside of the staircase.

This is the Banquet Hall which was used for formally entertaining guests at Biltmore House. At one end is a large hearth with three, separate fireplaces. At the other end is a balcony on which an E.M. Skinner pipe organ is installed. The organ was designed for the mansion but was first housed in the village church which is now Cathedral of All Souls. The organ was placed in the mansion and rebuilt in 1971 when All Souls received it's own organ built by Casavant Frères organ company of Canada. The Skinner, using a mechanical device, plays hymn arrangements regularly several times a day.

The third floor living room, like the rest of the house, is furnished with tapestries, paintings, books, and interesting furniture acquired on one of Vanderbilt’s shopping trips made in Europe or Asia.

OK, this is a typical room where one of the servants lived. There is a section for single women and another section of bedrooms single men. Married people worked on the farm and lived in one of the houses. The Head of House lived in a three-room suite near the quarters of the other servants. That suit is similar to a small apartment.

Shortly after George Washington Vanderbilt II died in 1914 of complications from an emergency appendectomy, his widow, Edith Vanderbilt, completed the sale of 85,000 of the original 125,000 acres  to the federal government. This was to carry out Biltmore’s wish that the land remain unaltered. That property became the nucleus of the Pisgah National Forest. In an attempt to provide income to provide for maintenance during the Depression, Vanderbilt’s only child, Cornelia Stuyvesant Vanderbilt, and her husband, John Amherst Cecil, opened Biltmore House to the public in March 1930. Family members continued to live there until 1956, when it was permanently opened to the public as a house museum. During the years following, other land was sold for a variety of reasons including right-of-way for a portion of I-40.

Today the estate still covers 8,000 acres and is split in half by the French Broad River. It is owned by the Biltmore Company, which is controlled by Vanderbilt's grandson, William A.V. Cecil, Sr., who inherited the estate upon the death of his mother, Cornelia (daughter and only child of G.W. and Edith). William, Sr.’s son, Bill, Jr., serves as company president. In 1964, it was designated a National Historic Landmark. The dairy farm was split off into Biltmore Farms, run by William Cecil’s brother, George Henry Vanderbilt Cecil. William Cecil converted the former dairy barn into the Biltmore Winery in 1971 after hiring a sixth-generation winemaster from France.

Our visit to the Asheville area ended on Sunday morning. And, as is our good habit, we attended worship at a local church. As it turned out, we attended the Biltmore United Methodist Church which was not far from the campground. The church, based on our impression, has a healthy understanding of it’s mission in the local community as well as the world. They heard the results of a survey made in the community as well as a plea to pray for and give toward relief efforts in West Africa where Christians are under attack by Muslem extremists.

Biltmore United Methodist Church, where we

worshipped while visiting Asheville.

On Sunday afternoon, August 10, we left Asheville and traveled to Mt. Vernon, KY to stay at Renfro Valley RV Park for two nights. The park is large and divided into sections: 30-amp electric with water and sewer (this is the older portion) and 50-amp electric with water and sewer (also called the Creekside). We arrived after all the shops were closed so we didn’t visit any attractions other than to walk around the grounds.

On Tuesday we headed for Louisville for a month-long stay at Add-More Campground in Clarksville, IN. It is conveniently located near the commercial area on Veteran’s Parkway just off I-65. Our site is on the northern edge of the campground with three, small lakes across from the front of our motorhome on the adjoining property.

The view out the front of our motorhome at Add-More Campground.

On Thursday we drove to the Hurstbourne campus of Down Syndrome of Louisville to help Candice celebrate her 26th birthday. She, her friends in the adult day program, and the staff all enjoyed the cookie cake.

Candice with her birthday cookie cake.

Tune in again next time for the continuing saga of the travels of Martha and Byron Songer, fulltimers in their motorhome where they are always home though sometimes gone.