Days 54 thru 56 - 10/28 thru 30 - Travel to Waco

On Saturday morning we left the KOA in Leander and drove northeast to Waco, Texas. It was a relatively short drive of less than 90 miles to a campground in a rural environment south of Waco; Flat Creek Farm RV Resort. Apparently, the campground sits on what was a working farm.

We arrived in the middle of the afternoon and had the opportunity to watch parts of two NCAA football games; Georgia vs. Florida and Louisville vs Duke. Both of our teams won. After the games we drove into Waco for dinner with Martha’s uncle, his daughter, and their spouses.

On Sunday we watched the worship service from our home church in Louisville and spent some time catching up on writing and relaxing. Then, it was off for another dinner with family again. This time, we did get a photo. or two.

Our photo. On the left front; Floyd Shealy and his new wife, Betty.

Left rear; Scott McGee and Jocelyn (Martha’s cousin).

I think you will be a able to figure out the two on the right;

Martha and Byron, the nationwide travelers.

We go to enjoy some cold and rainy weather in Waco. Though they needed the rain, everyone agreed that it would have been better appreciated if the temperatures were normal, 25 degrees higher than the actual. And windy? It was windy the whole time we were there until the morning we left.

As mentioned above, multiple photos were taken. Scott had

set up his tripod and triggered the camera. This photo

was taken by surprise; caught in the act of laughing.

You choose which was the better photo.

Day 53 - 10/27 - Visit to Lyndon B. Johnson Library and Museum

Our visit to the Lyndon Baines Presidential Library and Museum on the campus of the University of Texas at Austin was another, interesting adventure. Byron first visited here in 2011. For Martha, it was her first visit. During our time there, Byron commented that many of the displays had undergone renovation because it wasn’t like he recalled. In fact, there was a massive year-long renovation and addition of new exhibits to the three public floors of the building with completion in January of 2013. Byron said the renovation really changed how the exhibits were displayed and made them more engaging.

Welcome to the LBJ Library & Museum.

Unlike the other libraries and museums, the Johnson version

is all in one building. The others have the library holding

separate from the museum exhibits.

The building on the campus of UT Austin looks like it came

right out of the architectural era of the 1960’s; rather plain

with very few windows.

Once in the building, which is under the control of the National Archives and Records Administration, we learned that the museum exhibits are spread across three floors. One starts at ground (entry) level, goes up one, and then takes the elevator to the ninth (top) floor to view the remainder of the exhibits. Floors five through eight contain the stacks and documents. An appointment and approval is needed for access to those floors.

The Johnson Presidential Limousine is located just inside the

entry to the museum exhibits.

The stacks and documents can be viewed through the windows

as one looks up the marble steps from the third floor to the fourth

floor. The third floor is at ground (entry) level.

The photo and timeline walls aid in recalling the events in historical context—1960s.

The thematic displays rely heavily on red and blue for color coordination. These are more thematic in context rather than being a linear timeline.

Several quotations are featured throughout the exhibit areas. They are display on walls that transition from one area to another.

Our mission is at once the oldest and the most basic of this country:

To right wrong, to do justice, to serve man. 

March 15, 1965

LBJ: “I’m just catching hell every day.”

Truman: “That’s a sign that you’re doing the right thing.”

Johnson and Truman conversation in 1964

It seems that a mandatory thing it to display how the Oval Office appeared during the term of the president. Johnson preferred lighter, neutral colors so that the colors of flags could stand out. Even the carpet was solid in color with the presidential symbol being woven in relief.

To utilize the space more economically, the Johnson

version is at 7/8 sized dimensionally. Still, his rocking chair

and footstool were retained at full size.

Something learned about Johnson: LBJ had always voted with the block of Southern Democrats during his terms in the House of Representatives and Senate. This meant not addressing the inequalities of race and the Jim Crow laws. That stopped in late 1956 or early 1957 when he determined he was only being expedient and not true to his core belief about racial equality. His first position out of college was teaching in a school where there were Anglo-Americans as well as Mexican-Americans in equal balance. He saw how inequity was unfair.

“Until justice is blind to color, until education is unaware of race, until opportunity is unconcerned with the color of men’s skins, emancipation will be a proclamation but not a fact.” –– Lyndon Johnson remarks at Gettysburg, May 30, 1963.

“To deny a man his hopes because of his color or race, his religion or the place of his birth is not only to do injustice, it is to deny America and to dishonor the dead who gave their lives for American freedom.” — Lyndon Johnson, speech before congress on voting rights, March 15, 1965

 

Day 52 - 10/26 - Visit to George H. W. Bush Library and Museum

Our day started in the rain and ended with some sun. Our drive from Leander (campground) to College Station took a little over two hours. Leaving in the pouring rain, we traveled primarily across two-lane highways. In between swipes of the wipers we saw a lot of Texas countryside due to the lack of interstate connecting the Austin area with College Station. The museum and library are located on the campus of Texas A&M campus. This was our eighth Presidential Library and Museum. It is something we highly recommend for every American.

When we arrived at College Station, we had run from the rain.

But, as you can tell, the sky was still ominous looking.

The skies looked threatening so the first thing we did was

see all we could that was outside. That included pausing

to look at “The Day the Wall Fell” sculpture of

one stallion and four mares jumping over a replica

of the Berlin Wall.

This is the Presidential Pond with surrounding walkway. To the

back and left is a gazebo at the Barbara Bush Rose Garden.

Through a wooded walkway from the pond is the

secluded gravesite. George is in the center,

Barbara to the right, and the couple’s young daughter (who died

from leukemia before her fourth birthday) is to the left.

The museum building sits adjacent to the library. Though not

pictured, in front of the library is new construction for the

Marine One and UP4141 locomotive exhibit.

Union Pacific 4141 was painted in honor of Pres. Bush in 2005

and placed into service by Union Pacific. After the death of

Bush, the locomotive pulled Bush’s funeral train on December 6, 2018

 running from Spring to College Station, Texas. A year later

it was donated to the museum. It will go on display in

2024, the 100th year since his birth. The paint scheme is similar

to that of Air Force One.

Like any good museum, the displays are arranged in a flowing and cohesive order. The main galleries for the George H. W. Bush museum is as follows.

1. Welcome Area and Symbols of the Presidency 
2. Family Traditions 
3. World War II - Duty, Honor, Country 
4.  Political Itch
5. Domestic Leadership
6. First Lady Contributions
7. Crisis Management - Situation Room
8. A Life of Service
9. Gallery of American History (temporary exhibits) 

"My mother couldn't make up her mind which of her 

father’s names (George, Herbert, Walker) she wanted me to have.

When christening time came she decided not to decide."

George Herbert Walker Bush

Lieutenant Junior Grade George Bush was a pilot with 

Torpedo Squadron Fifty-One (VT-51 ) aboard the

aircraft carrier USS San Jacinto. He piloted a General Motors

TBM Avenger which carried a crew of three.

He was one of the youngest pilots in the

US Navy during World War II. He was the

sole survivor after being shot down.

At 17, the young Bush attempted to enlist in the Navy. Of course, he wasn’t accepted. At 18 he was accepted and was trained as a pilot. After his lone survival from being shot down by the Japanese and being rescued by a submarine on patrol, he felt very firmly that God has spared him so that he could do something else more meaningful with his life.

After World War II, Bush went to Andover. The school motto, non sibs (not for self), sought to teach a sense of responsibility toward the global community and natural world. Of the experience at Andover, Bush said: “I loved those years. They did, indeed, teach me the great and real business of living. And even now it's lessons of honesty, selflessness, faith in god – well, they enrich our lives.”

The museums all have an Oval Office decorated as it was

during the term of office of the various presidents. This one

was no different although the Reagan version is behind a protective wall.

One Thousand Points of Light

“Any definition of a successful life must include serving others”

– President Bush

This painting hangs in the gallery Life of Service gallery

to be seen as visitors exit the display area. It serves

as a reminder for One Thousand Points of Light.

A Life of Service … Well Lived … Mission Complete

Of the museums, we both think the Lincoln museum in Springfield, Illinois is the most immersive and best done. Martha thought this one was second. Byron will call it a tie for second with Nixon. Both are different in their own ways and, for the same reasons, outstanding. Again, so much information was presented and so well put assembled. The curators are to be appreciated for the work they do. Credit also goes to the National Archives for protecting out national interest in the material developed during any presidency.

As we discussed when coming away from our visit, each of the presidents, though not perfect, gave of themselves because they had hearts for service and heart for people; admirable qualities. Also, they were not self-serving or only looking out for themselves.

After our library visit, we met up with some friends Martha has known since her junior college days and before, Bill and Peggy Coleman. We had a delightful visit at a nearby  Cheddar’st. As we did with other friends we met in Arizona, we were so busy catching up on each other’s lives and enjoying visiting that we forgot to get a picture.

We made it back to the campground just before dark. Another good day!

Days 48-51 – 10/22 - 10/25 – Interesting Scenery from the Windows

 OK, folks. These are our travel days with no stays for visiting the local areas. Just travel. Sounds boring? Not so. Keep in mind that wherever you go throughout the USA, the landscape (topology) can change drastically and often. Each area has it’s own beauty and reason for being as it is.

We left Mancos, Colorado on Sunday, October 22, and headed east toward Durango before turning southeast toward Albuquerque, New Mexico. We crossed the southern Continental Divide about 60 miles north of Albuquerque at 7380 feet elevation. When we crossed a northern Continental Divide in Montana we were a little over 6000 feet. Since that crossing north of Albuquerque, we’ve been on a downhill trajectory. Yes, we’re over the hill in more than one way.

As we turned south in Durango, we encountered a scene that

was quite colorful for the region. The cottonwoods, always

found near water, had changed to their golden, fall color.

Monday’s travel was between Bernalillo, NM and Clovis, NM (October 23) in more of an easterly direction. We were still in somewhat desert-like territory for a portion of the journey.

The formations that “jump up” in the middle of the wide-open

spaces is always amazing.

Tuesday, the 24th, when headed toward Sweetwater, Texas which is west of Abilene. We were on flatter ground that we had been for some time. We had also returned to civilization in terms of distances between towns not being so great and farm or ranch houses also being closer together. Farmland? Yes, that was also experienced. Then, before getting into Sweetwater, we started seeing a great number of windmills (alternative energy production) across much of the landscape. In fact, what we were seeing is called the Sweetwater Wind Farm which boasts 392 turbines manufactured by GE Energy, Siemens, and Mitsubishi. They stretch across 144 square miles of West Texas. When built, Sweetwater was the biggest wind farm in Texas, and in the world, when it was built. Below many of the turbines and blades were oil well pumps, 90% of them standing idle.

Much of the Sweetwater Wind Farm is in open farm country

though several are in former oil fields.

Settled in for the evening, we enjoyed being where there was

grass and not just rocks and dust. Click on the photo

to see an enlarged image then look at the price

of gas and diesel fuel — get it while it is “on sale.”

Our last day of travel, Wednesday (10/25), was a little more harrowing than expected. We encountered heavy rain as we left Sweetwater, Texas. We encountered a few accidents upon approaching Abilene that slowed traffic. Then, in bypassing Abilene we had to dodge a wet, wandering dog in the center lane of traffic. Within miles of that scare we had a small sliding experience with a slick road surface caused by the heavy rain. Thankfully, everything was kept under control and we arrived in Leander, Texas with no further incident. In fact, by the time we arrived the dark skies had given way to an overcast condition. We were safe and sound.

We encountered an internet friend of Byron’s at the

Leander / NW Austin KOA. He was a member of a

Facebook group Byron started for work campers in 2017.

Even though we’ve traveled four to five hours every day, it has been nice to have some down time each afternoon and evening. Tomorrow, we head to College Station, Texas to visit the George H. W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum on the campus of Texas A&M University.

Day 47 - 10/21 - Visiting Mesa Verde National Park

This was a great day for a visit to Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado. Martha was fortunate to secure one ticket for a Ranger-let tour of one of the cliff dwellings. Byron said for her to go on and take advantage of the opportunity since getting a ticket was difficult because it was the last day for the season. So she could make the tour, we got an early.

One of the fascinating elements first seen when entering

Mesa Verde National Park is this imposing formation

known as Overlook Point. It is the smallest mesa in the park

by length and width on the top.

By the way, a mesa is an isolated, flat-topped elevation bounded from all sides by steep escarpments and stands distinctly above a surrounding plain. Mesas generally consist of sedimentary rocks capped by a more resistant layer of harder rock like shale overlain by sandstone. The flat layer acts as a caprock to form the flat summit of a mesa.

The tour was of Balcony House and the meeting place was 20 miles into the park. Since the speed limit in national parks is, at most, 35 mph which is why the early start was required. After all, we had to go from the entrance to the mesa (a change in elevation of nearly 1,000 feet) going through many switch-backs at less than 20 mph. According to what she read, the Balcony House Tour is the most strenuous (there are two others). And, as one of the rangers put it, most people make it back.

The ticketed group departed the parking lot and descended 135 stairs to a paved path along the edge of Soda Canyon. That took them to the first ladder and a climb of 32 feet upward. At the base of the ladder, was a “seep spring.” Seep springs are sources of water created by water draining through the sandstone. The water runs along ledges and pools in shallow places.

After climbing down to an access level, the tour continues by

climbing up the 32-foot ladder to the alcove level of the dwelling.

The seep stream supplies “running” water to the inhabitants

of the dwelling. That the stone of the mesa collects and holds

water is an amazing thing because drilling a well would be impossible

After climbing the ladder, the group walked through a narrow passageway to enter the alcove of the Balcony House. Most of the cliff dwellings were built closer to the base of the canyons but Balcony House was built 600 feet above the Soda Canyon floor. The alcove was 39 feet deep and 20 feet high. The complex is about 264 feet long and is believed to have had 38 rooms and 2 kivas. It is believed the Balcony House may have been used for educational purposes as well as cultural and ritual ceremonies. The rectangles in the walls are not windows but, in reality, are the actual doors the people entered through.

Access to the alcove and the rest of Balcony House

is through this narrow opening.

After going through the narrow passage, one enters the alcove.

This is the first view of what remains of the dwelling. Walls were

built from bricks fashioned with a mixture of sandstone and water.

The areas where the dwellings were built had been carved by the

wind and water under the capstone of the mesa. This photo

shows how the main walls were built to connect to

the naturally-formed ceiling.

Leaving the alcove, the group climbed a short ladder and used steps chiseled in the rock to move to the area with the kivas, the courtyard. Kiva roofs were constructed of logs and adobe. They were level with the surrounding surface. The 3' x 3' hatchway in the center served as entrance and smokehole. A vent tunnel was also dug to the surface so a draft existed when a fire was burning.

In this photo, one can see the rooms and walls of the remains.

In the center of the photo is a ladder extending from a kiva.

Note that there is a vent on the wall that serves a basic function.

The cliff dwellings used the highest form of construction

developed to that point in time (1000 CE).

A kiva was a space used for rites and meetings. Among the

modern Pueblo peoples, “kiva” means a large room that is

circular and underground, and used for spiritual ceremonies.

Here is proof that Martha was there. As mentioned earlier,

what looks like a window was actually the doorway.

Inhabitants accessed a door by way of a ladder.

At the end of the tour, the group exited through a 12' long tunnel that was about 18" wide. At the end of the tunnel was a 17' ladder that led to a shelf. Once at that level, the group ascended stone steps and climbed another 17' ladder to the parking area.

Exiting Balcony House meant crawling through

this tunnel to get to another shelf or alcove of the cliff.

Byron took this photo of Martha at the top of the final ladder.

She made it! She was bit winded but glad to have made the tour.

This is an official NPS photo of Balcony House as viewed

from across Soda Canyon.

Evidence of the approach of Fall can be seen in this photo taken from across

the canyon. The Mesa Top Loop provides excellent viewing points

of several of the cliff dwellings.

After Martha met Byron back at the top (Balcony Parking Lot), we headed to the museum to watch a short film about the Ancestral Pueblo people who lived in this area for 850 to 1000 years. Before arriving in the area, the people had been hunter/gatherers. However, when they came to the mesas, they took up farming. By becoming farmers, they had to build dwellings so they could live in the location throughout the year. At first, they built pit houses on the cap of the mesa. It was later than they found safety in building their dwellings on the sides of the cliffs under standstone alcoves (shelves) that stuck out from the capstone. They raised corn and squash as well as turkeys. In addition, they still hunted for animals and gathered berries, etc.

After seeing the video, we had lunch at the parks grill. Byron had a grilled chicken sandwich that he said tasted better than any he’d had at Chick-fil-A.

Following lunch, we took the 6-mile drive around the top of the mesa. The 6-mile Mesa Top Loop takes visitors through 700 years of Ancestral Pueblo history. From remains of early pithouses and masonry villages to multi-storied cliff dwellings, archeological sites along this loop show how early Pueblo architecture evolved. Archeology and Pueblo oral histories shed light on what life may have been like for people who lived, worked, and raised families here for generations. There are 11 stops along the route. For us, it was hard to imagine that had all been done seven centuries ago and then abandoned by the ancestral people when they moved farther south.

We ended the drive around the loop at a viewing point for Cliff Palace, North America’s largest cliff dwelling with 150 rooms and 21 kivas. Cliff Palace stands as a grand testament to the engineering, architectural, and design achievements of these ancient Pueblo people.

A composite of pictorial information about the changes at Mesa Verde before

the inhabitants migrated south around 1300 CE.

Here is proof that Byron was here, too.

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Park Point which is as an elevation of 8,572 feet…highest point in the park. Before leaving, we went to the Visitor’s Center at the park entrance. Why? It was closed when we entered the park early in the morning.

Oddly, the fire tower is only operated during the summer months

which is the rainy season. The reason? To watch for lightning strikes.

We thought we could see Rock City from the northern view

of Park Point. For sure, we could see into other states.

This is a display of pottery and jewelry found on the mesas.

At the Visitor Center, we learned that the people had been using

tightly woven baskets before developing the ability to create pottery.

This was a wonderful park about people and their survival.

Our visit to Mesa Verde was the last on our list of national parks on this trip. Mesa Verde was wonderful and informative since it conserves the natural beauty of the region in addition to preserving some of the history of America’s indigenous people; people to whom we owe great respect.

We still have both Bush presidential libraries as well as the Johnson library and museum to visit before we return home. Stay tuned.

FYI, here’s the video shown at the museum.